Among the fashion moguls who dominate the churning wheel axis of London-Paris-New York, Riccardo Tisci has established a new level of “the designer-celebrity” status. Within ten years as head of Givenchy, he managed to turn his extravagant lifestyle and high profile friendships in to his personal brand.
He does not travel without an entourage of at least ten people, including top models like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, as well as celebrities, artists and photographers. This group became enormously popular as his #gang, one of the most copied hashtags on Instagram, which boasts over a million followers.
After his trendy fashion show directed by Marina Abramovic, which brought together an audience of 1,200 people in New York, the creative director of Givenchy chatted with L’Officiel on his life in slums, street style, love for Brazil and Instagram.
Let’s start with your latest adventure: the spring-summer 2016 women’s fashion show in New York. Take us through your thinking process?
I chose New York because, in terms of business and communication, the city is the center of the world. In addition, the American market has supported me from the very beginning. I am obsessed with America. Harlem, for me, is NY and its mix of cultures. America is America and I love America, but in New York there is this mixture of so many cultures, so many people, and so many ways of thinking. In Harlem every person has a strong sense of individuality and style, an honest sense of fashion. When I was a kid, I always had a dream of parading in NY, so I didn’t wanted to come in silence. I wanted to celebrate properly.
You were one of the first designers to bring the authentic street style and ghetto culture to the catwalks of Paris. How would you describe this path and its continuity in future?
For me, this is something that comes naturally. I came from the street, I feel at home on the street. Everything starts from there. The energy of the people, how they dress. When you come from poverty, hunger and suffering, your creativity is strengthened. You really appreciate everything, it gives importance to color, the material, the messages and everything that people do. The street is what makes people honest. It is on the street that everything begins and ends.
Talking about men’s fashion, the aggressiveness you used in those collections at the beginning of Givenchy seemed to express how people felt at that time. Recently, you are more focused on religion and spirituality. What has changed in you and your customer’s way of thinking/lifestyle?
I love doing menswear because I think there is so much to explore, all the taboos that we have to break … that’s why my collections for Givenchy are so successful. I give my customers something they love and do not find elsewhere. Creative process for men and women is the same. When I started the men’s collections, I really wanted to bring what I was already doing in the female. I created the style for a woman who is confident of her sensuality, her personality, her body – not in the sense of having a perfect body, but be aware of her sensuality of her femininity. She can play with a man’s wardrobe. And my man is so confident of their sexuality, their masculinity, he can play with the wardrobe of a woman.
Collection ‘Favelas 74’ was inspired by Brazilian slums. What do you see in the style of slums that catches your eye?
My inspiration is life. I am one of the designers who is not afraid to go to raves, even if people recognize me. I’m not afraid to attend dangerous areas such as the ‘favelas’ in Brazil. Men in slums are more natural and more confident about their sexuality. They are not afraid to mix and match clothing. They represent sensuality, elegance and street (which I recognize as elegance). I love the fact that they play with opposites, like flowers (representing peace and serenity) and camouflage (representing army), but all interpreted very colorfully and positively.
Brazil seems to be a constant theme of creation. How do you see the Brazilian’s style?
I Love Latin Americans. It is a source of a great inspiration in my life. I am very attracted to Brazil’s effortless elegance and savoir-faire. I love the fact that sexuality and religion can mix and people enjoy life.
What do you like most about Brazil?
Brazil is incredible, Brazilians are always smiling. I love the history of the people, which is a mixture of many ethnic groups. I love the freedom of people and love knowing that it is related to energy and religion.
Instagram seems to be a tool that you enjoy a lot. How do you handle overexposure? You have fun with it?
I’m very bad with computers, I’m very bad with technology. People told me, “You should open an Instagram account, Twitter etc.” But I did not. And when I finally opened an account on Instagram, it was to share my emotions and not to sell products.
You got many online trends such as #love and #gang hashtags. I thought it would connect with so many people?
I see the young generation using Instagram and Facebook the wrong way. They are so intelligent tools, but you have to use them the right way. People are overposting, they think it’s just a way to make them famous. People recognize who I am and what I want to achieve in life, and what I want to do as a designer. And all this is a party for me. That is why any image that I post is about celebrating on the thrill of giving for people who like my journey and want to share it with me.
#gang hashtag became one of your trademarks. What do you do to support your family and friends across the globe?
I have a big family, so I believe in the family. Other people call team, others prefer gang. I am love, I am family, I am the gang. We all live for love; love is the only thing that has not a price. It is putting everyone on the same level and that is the point of it all.