A year is a long time in food. Cafés come and go; eating habits evolve in unpredictable directions; kale reaches official rock star status before everyone admits it tastes like damp cardboard. L’Officiel caught up with Guillaume Brahimi to find out how the past year has been for one of the country’s top chefs.

’O Your latest Sydney offering ‘Guillaume’ opened few months ago. How have things been?

Guillaume Brahimi: Very, very good. I think there’s always been a place in Sydney for classic French fine dining.

’O And yet many other chefs are moving away from that in favour of a more informal set-up…

GB: Well, we like that. That’s fine with us. We just try to be the best classical French restaurant. That’s my goal.

’O You’re still very hands on, splitting your time between Sydney and your two bistros in Perth and Melbourne. What’s the difference with those?

GB: The philosophy is the same: we’re there to make people happy. But it’s a more casual approach, with all the French classics from steak frites to steak tartare to lemon tart to profiteroles.

’O You organised a seafood feast at Qualia, for Audi Hamilton Island Race Week [Brahimi is an ambassador for the marque]. How do you find working in a kitchen that’s not your own?

GB: It’s stressful, but a positive stressful—and only because I want to make sure it’s done properly. We’ve got a checklist and we make sure it’s all ticked. To have fun you need boundaries and discipline.

’O No doubt you witnessed plenty of errors on that front while contributing to Masterchef this season…

GB: There’s a lot of pressure. And as much as there’s a strong bond between the contestants, only one person can win. I was impressed with the quality I saw. I’ve done it for a few years now, and I have to say the level is getting better and better.

’O Do you think that echoes the nation’s attitude to food in general?

GB: I think Australia is in a very good place, food-wise. There’s a better understanding of what to use and when, and that’s partly because of what people see on television.

’O Where else in the world do you love to eat?

GB: Barcelona for the casual atmosphere, and Paris because, well, I was born there and I just love it.

’O Could you see yourself spending more time overseas?

GB: I’ve done two trips to Europe in the past five weeks, but yes, somewhere inside me I’d love to spend a year there. To take the family and live in France, probably. But you know, it’s a dream. If it doesn’t happen, that’s okay too.

The Book: Guillaume: Food for Family, by Guillaume Brahimi.