The style identity of the nation lies not in its past but in its present. The fashion industry is a melting pot of AUSTRALIAN TALENT bringing rich views and diverse perspectives.
On the eve of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, L’Officiel meets the movers, shakers, achievers and influencers of our country.
QUIET ACHIEVER – CHRISTOPHER ESBER
For most designers, the characteristics designated to their core customer—the muse, or the ‘woman’— more often than not bleed into the personality of the makers themselves. It’s interesting, then, to hear the parallels Christopher Esber melds into his idea of his customer: “She loves fashion but she’s not willing to surrender herself to it,” he says. “She appreciates well-made, tailored clothing in interesting and unique textiles.” Much like the man himself, naturally. Seeping into the consciousness of the industry after launching his brand at Australian Fashion Week in 2010, Esber was, and still is, a breath of fresh air— integrating his tailoring background to form a well-balanced marriage of masculine and feminine. “Cut and textile takes precedent above colour,” he says. “Even looking back at the first show, the collection still feels relevant and we continue to work with the fundamental brand codes—tailoring, shirting, embellishment and leather.” As razor-sharp as the Esber woman is, there’s no stiff upper lip in sight. “Coming from Australia, there’s always a sense of release in the way women dress,” he says. “I like to think the Christopher Esber woman is undone and refined … she is ageless.”
THE MATRIARCH – CARLA ZAMPATTI
If you were to bestow any Australian designer blue blood status, Carla Zampatti, without question, sits ceremoniously at the apex of the fashion family tree. Our Grand Dame of womenswear, if you will; capitalising on a unique eye and a tenacious work ethic sees her celebrate 50 years in the business in 2015—no mean feat in any industry. “My desire was always to create beautiful clothes that would flatter a woman,” she says. “Looking through my archives recently—I’m preparing to launch both a pictorial book and a memoir in October—I was pleased that most of my styles have stood the test of time,” she says. “Fashion for me is about understanding the modern woman and her lifestyle needs, and responding by giving her the opportunity to be excited by something new that she has not tried before.” Zampattti’s illustrious list of accomplishments, from her successful Ford Laser edition (yes, the car) in 1985 to now frequently dressing our own royalty, Princess Mary of Denmark, are testament to someone whose finger has never left the pulse. “Each season brings new challenges, from fabric, proportion and even the economy and social changes. All these aspects dictate how I design,” she says. Trials and tribulations aside, Zampatti’s touch of class is evident through all that reaches her fingertips—always appearing effortless, just as a queen ought to.
THE ARTISAN – AKIRA ISOGAWA
At first glance, the concept of ‘the art of romance’ lies inherently with the French and Italians—textbook expressions of grandeur, late-night rendezvous and the like. The Japanese approach, however, is quietly intriguing—more in smaller, considered gestures that speak volumes without the need for fireworks. It’s this devoted attention to detail that brought Akira Isogawa lovingly into the fold of Australian fashion, stealing hearts with his richly embellished fabrics, vintage textiles and traditional prints since establishing the Akira brand in 1993. “We give a great deal of practice to textile design, using a variety of traditional hand applied methods such as shibori, batik and hand embroidery,” he says. “That results in timeless yet contemporary shapes; the styles that transcend time, for the wearer to express their inner soul.” With a string of awards and accolades in his wake, Isogawa frequently shows in the City of Love itself— Paris—and, unsurprisingly, is entirely humble of his notable successes. Peacefully building his empire, without the need for fireworks.
THE SCULPTOR – DION LEE
In an industry so entertained with flamboyance, drama and general over-the-top predispositions, Dion Lee is one tall drink of water. Continually maintaining a Zen-like energy of cool, calm, collected; never one to ensconce himself with celebrity or publicity —the ‘designer’s designer’, in a way. In reality, the intensely whipsmart mind behind that imperturbable façade never stops whirring. A quick scan of his almost algorithmic pattern making alone reads more architect than fashion designer (his penchant for ‘industrial luxury’ rings true, clearly). “I like the clothes to feel sensual and intelligent at the same time … clothes that are conscious of the body, play with negative space, feel open and light; in a way that is technical and considered,” he says. “Taking elements of construction, structural embellishment and fabric development, to create something that feels luxurious in a very modern way.” Weaving neoprene to float on the body, for instance? No sweat. Not that his customer would be intimidated by such a prospect. “I think our customer has a relaxed sophistication and is not afraid to experiment,” he says. “I’m attracted to women of strength, intelligence and individuality.” A perfect match.
THE TAILOR – GARY BIGENI
Gary Bigeni ‘the man’ and Gary Bigeni ‘the label’ may seem like a disconnect on first glance. His design penchant for clean lines and primary colours seems non-conducive for a man so fond of neon hair and creepers, but going against the natural order never fails to surprise. “For a long time my collections were made up of jersey drapes that had me known within the industry. But for the past few seasons I’ve wanted my collection to relate to a broader group of women who do different things within their lives,” he says. Although that masterful drape still makes an appearance on occasion, it’s the understated complexities that intrigue—with his aptitude for fluidity being the bones that hold it all together. “My customer is strong and knows what she wants. But she can be anybody … I see her as someone that’s not afraid to bite the bullet, comfortable in her own skin and plays her own game by mixing my pieces into her everyday life,” he says. “To me it’s not about high fashion—it’s more about creating your own style and relating things that work with you.”
GOLDEN BOY – TONI MATICEVSKI
A beautiful mind. It’s an apt sentiment for Toni Maticevski—internationally respected, artistically refined, exceptionally gifted. With such an abundance of talent, you’d be forgiven for being somewhat intimidated by the myth behind the man. Yet in his presence, Toni’s charmingly humble demeanour couldn’t be more endearing. “It wasn’t an intention to start my brand but it just somehow happened,” he says. Exhibit A. That being said, don’t mistake his kindness for weakness. The tension plays out in his collections; forever walking a tightrope between hard and soft, structural and fluid, draping the body with disciplined, unrelenting construction. “I’d say it’s a mix of the past, nostalgic, with a spear shot into the future,” he says. So where’s that spear shot headed? Your guess is as good as ours, apparently. “I like to keep my ultimate vision to myself and my team,” he says. “I have a superstition about talking about things before I activate them. Sometimes it’s nicer to hold onto things that are in the developmental stages.”
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