Givenchy: Moving on from his beautiful (but flawed) Autumn 15, Riccardo Tisci is doing what he does best—intricate lace work, sheer, draping glamour with a touch of Victorian sombreness.

NYFW: 11/9/15

The first show at NYFW, Givenchy paid tribute to arguably, the darkest day in US history, 9/11. This was confined to an hour long presentation that featured performance artist, Marina Abramovic. The tribute didn’t spill into the collection which carried all the Givenchy hallmarks of opulence and detail.

Tisci’s fixation with facial adornment continues, thankfully avoiding the California Latina piercings and baby hair of his Chola Victorian which drew the ire of many (when applied to white models). This time he has looked to the near-East (or the Syfy channel) for his delicate lace masks.

Tisci knows when to go heavy on detail and when to pull it back, his reservoir of ideas never seems to drain. Sticking to monochrome, there’s a white here for every type: be it a yellow-gold gown, ivory lace, winter white silk. And there’s black, lots of black. The love of Victoriana continues.